I wasn't sure I'd take to the martini with a maraschino cherry in it, at the 900 West bar in the Fairmont Hotel in Vancouver, British Columbia. But they had been gaining in popularity in my hometown and although I had resisted them, what the hell, this was Western Canada in the dead of winter and it had been mid-50s that day with people walking around in shirt sleeves. It would be a time and a place for challenging commonly held beliefs. I had one the blasphemously red-tinged cocktails with the savory lollipops of lamb a waiter kept pushing and with each sip, the damned thing was growing on me.

The martinis and appetizers at 900 West were a great kick-off to a dine-around in downtown Vancouver. EntrŽes were a short walk away at the Fleuri Restaurant in the Sutton Place Hotel. I chose the seared Queen Charlotte halibut on a leek and barley risotto with peppercorn-flavored beurre rouge. Along with the full-bodied, locally grown Blue Mountain pinot noir, it made such a lovely combo I would just go with whatever the locals suggested from here on in. And that would be the sinful chocolates, pastries, and other desserts at Zin in the Pacific Palisades Hotel.

Clearly, Vancouver is a city that appreciates gustatory delights. One of the most innovative eateries, featuring seafood-oriented nouvelle cuisine is C Restaurant, overlooking False Creek. "I love the ability to improvise and create as I cook," says chef Robert Clark. "To me, it's play time."

Serious play time, as in a selection of caviars, and extensive raw bar and a great range of appetizers and entrŽes. My main course was seared British Columbia sablefish, with warm Israeli cous cous and puy lentils, roasted winter roots, spot prawns, watercress verjus in oatmeal oil. Wow!

At Cin Cin, I had a lunch that began with an antipasto of house smoked trout, ahi tuna seared rare, eggplant caviar, stuffed mussels, Gaeta olives, wood roasted peppers, Parma prosciutto with tomato and bocconcini on toast. The main course was ahi tuna served rare, Yukon gold potato risotto, green peas and asparagus.

On my final night in the city, I opted for the rooftop dinner, at the Sand Bar on Granville Island in Vancouver, outdoors in late January. This Canadian winter anomaly had obviously gotten to me. O.K. they had a fire going, but if I looked straight up I could see the stars. Even the bar was outside here and the younger set was mixing it up to background music that ranged from the stylized Flamenco of the Gypsy Kings to the thumping rhythms of pop. The pasta with strips of tuna went well with the people-watching in the hearth-heated night air.

The operators at the Listel Vancouver Hotel, where I stayed, have a real feel for the arts, including the culinary at the main floor restaurant and bar, O'Doul's, which boasts one of the most extensive menus and wines lists in the city.

Jim Garraway, chef Wichaninnish Inn

Creating the wonderful menus at the Wickaninnish Inn in Tofino on Vancouver Island is Chef Jim Garraway, who was drawn to a career in food and beverage when he was 14 and took a job washing dishes at a restaurant near his home in eastern Canada. Now, Garraway oversees a staff of from 13 to 19 cooks, depending upon the season. His culinary mantra is: "fresh, local, simple yet complex, i.e. you must experience all the individual elements."

Locally, he has a great deal to choose from, in particular a bounty of seafood plus all those elements the forests provide. "We have great mushrooms," he says, "some, like the pine mushroom, with intense flavor. Then there are all the berries."

Given the array of ingredients, Garraway also has a wonderful palette for his artistic presentation. "The eye eats first," he says, "then the nose, finally the mouth."

My dinner was a delectable affair: smoked Alaskan king scallop and roast bell pepper salad; juniper-rubbed quail breast with foie gras apple custard and apricot pink peppercorn chutney; a main course of spinach-stuffed roast saddle of rabbit with wild mushroom risotto; and carmelized orange jus and honey truffle soufflŽ for dessert.

Complementing the courses were local wines, selected by sommelier, John Campbell, including gerwurztraminer, pinot noir, merlot and ice wine.

Another great place to dine on the Pacific coast of Vancouver Island is Tauca Lee by the Sea, where I had some of chef Lisa Ahier's grilled halibut in Chinese black bean sauce served with organic baby bok choy and shiitake mushrooms on a bed of brown basamati rice.

After an appetite-enhancing day scoping out eagles along the Cheakamus and Squamish Rivers, I chowed down at the Howe Sound Inn & Brewing Company, in Brackendale on a blackened salmon sandwich with fries, washed down with a glass of the rich house ale.