In Mel Brooks' brilliant film "The Producers," Zero Mostel convinces Gene Wilder to dine "alfresco" in Central Park while talking him into the biggest mistake of his life (I'd rather not get into the plot of the film right here, but feel free to go see the Broadway play that lacks the insane edge of the original motion picture).

Zero's concept of "alfresco" was a simple hot dog on a stale bun from one of the many pushcart-peddlers circling the Central Park area in search of hungry New Yorkers.

In the village of Whistler, B.C., however, "alfresco" dining gets a tad more interesting than a hot dog on a white-bread bun. Araxi, located smack dab in the middle of the hubbub of trendy, upscale, crazy Whistler (4222 Village Square), is the penultimate experience in summer alfresco dining in what is arguably the most beautiful resort in North America.

While most of the whisperstream swirls over the ski-snowboard-winter scene in this hipper-than-hip B.C. town, the raw numbers show that summer is the meal ticket for the retail-service business community in Whistler. People flock to Whistler to mountain bike, hike or ski the glacier-you can ski here through July!

And after a long day of bump skiing or swimming in the pool at the Fairmont Chateau Whistler (we'll chat more about this awesome hotel next month), there's nothing better than enjoying a gourmet meal in the outdoor bar area at Araxi. The outdoor tables - the patio seats 80 - overlooks the town square, where skateboarders and mountain-bikers swap extreme-sports war stories - amongst other things - and tourists wander aimlessly in search of the best deal on a Rolex.

The man to see at Araxi is manager Reg Jorquera, a genial and intelligent fellow who knows much about food and wine and (God bless him) is a rabid Toronto Maple Leafs fans in a hotbed of Vancouver Canucks loyalism.

Reg, who fielded my caustic comments about the Leafs with good humor and patience, will guide you through a menu that is based on a simple culinary concept: Rely on the best local raw ingredients and fresh organic produce, and add flourishes of French and Italian cooking styles for flavor and texture.

Menu Selections-Araxi The menu changes on a seasonal basis, so expect a wave of new options by the time you head to Whistler this summer. You can order anything off the menu while dining in the great outdoors, or while seated at the outdoor bar area, and the same goes for the excellent selection of B.C. wines and imported beers. Note that all prices listed are in Canadian currency.

Local appetizer specialties include Smoked Salt Spring Island Albacore Tuna ($16.50), served with a warm salad of organic shiitake mushrooms - sort of a Nicoise salad for Green-Party types; Steamed Gulf Island Mussels ($15.50) swimming in a broth of bamboo shoots, basil, lemongrass and coconut curry - the mussels are plump, fresh and infused with the piquant overtones of the curry; Blackberry & Cayenne Glazed Quail Breasts ($16.50), served with an excellent polenta; and a robust British Columbia Seafood Chowder ($14.50), which comes loaded with catch-of-the-day seafood offerings and spiked with fennel, vermouth and a dash of cream.

My favorite entrees after two trips to Araxi were the Seared Sockeye Salmon ($28), which boasted organic oyster mushrooms, a smoky pancetta sauté and exquisite Pemberton (a rustic town about 20 kilometers north of Whistler) parsnip gnocchi with thyme; an excellent Grilled 14 oz. Veal Chop ($38.50) with roasted garlic mashed (heavy on the garlic!), local huckleberries, wild mushrooms and truffle oil; and my personal favorite: the Cowichan Valley Farm Coq Au Vin ($26.50) - organic chicken breasts marinated and then slow-cooked in red wine, pearl onions and double smoked bacon. Finish the meal with an Okinagan Apple Tart ($8.50) served with a blackberry sauce and vanilla ice cream or the Maple Cheesecake ($8.50) drizzled with real Quebec maple syrup and you'll be ready for practically anything after this superb Canadian dining experience.

Araxi-4222 Village Square, Whistler B.C.; Tel.: 604-932-4540.
Visit Araxi on the Web at www.araxi.com.