Chicago is known for many wild and wooly distinctions: The Cubs curse that reared its ugly head yet again in what is now referred to as “The Steve Bartman Disaster”; the wonders (and dangers) of boardsailing on Lake Michigan on a warm and very windy day in June; the enviable claim of being the best city for copping an awesome steak in the USA. This column kicks off a new year with a homage to dining in Chicago, a city that makes finding a decent cut of beef as easy as spotting an attractive blonde sunbathing topless at the Hard Rock pool in Las Vegas.

And any legit search for the best steak in Chicago must begin at the legendary Chicago Chop House (60 West Ontario). I could go on at great length – Mike Royko-style –about the political deals made in backrooms at this eatery. Meat-packers and gangsters allegedly argued about business ethics over 64-oz. porterhouse steaks. Mayor Daley and his cronies would eat giant T-bone steaks and drink and smoke into the early-morning hours while planning how to raise the dead for upcoming elections in Cook County.

Whatever.

Let's cut to the chase and get right to the heart of the matter-consuming quality beef served in gigantic portions in a dining room that still maintains the smoke-filled room ambience that made Chicago great. With grainy black-and-white photos of old Chicago pols looking down at you from walls adorned with red velvet, the meal gets rolling with excellent starters such as freshly shucked bluepoint oysters ($7.95 per 1/2 dozen), fried calamari that's served with a very spicy cocktail sauce ($6.95), and sliced beefsteak tomatoes ($4.95) adorned with Bermuda Onions and a sensational creamy garlic dressing – be sure to spend an extra $1 for ample chunks of dry blue cheese that are another Chicago culinary classic.

As for the steaks, opt for the 16 oz Chicago Chop House New York Strip ($28.95), charred and aged a minimum of three weeks; the 24 oz. T-bone steak ($24.95) – extremely lean and tender; a 16 oz. filet mignon ($23.95) that's so perfect it can be cut with only a fork (I'm not kidding); and a 48 oz. porterhouse (I'm not kidding) that's ideal for splitting with a good friend or devouring on your own with the help of several strong cocktails to help you get it all down – a la Ernest Hemingway on his many trips to Spain.

The dessert options are limited but quite good, with Eli's cheesecake (New York style with a simple graham cracker crust) and a chocolate mousse pie (both $5.25) at the top of the list of post-dinner attractions.

Many Chicago natives take the Chicago Chop House for granted, arguing that it is more of a tourist attraction than a true blue Chicago eatery. This claim is patently false. For any traveler in search of the best piece of meat on earth, this historic steakhouse is well worth the trip to Chi-Town.

Chicago Chop House, 60 West Ontario, Chicago, Ill., 1-800-229-2356, or on the Web at www.chicagochophouse.com.

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