The cattle industry has taken a major hit in recent years and for no good reason. In an ever-changing food environment, where carbs are snubbed and bacon is viewed as "healthy" by followers of the Atkins Diet, quality beef continues to be a staple on almost every menu across North America.

From John Wayne's mythic journey along the Chisholm Trail in the classic western "Red River"—a 2,000-mile blood-and-sand-soaked saga from the depressed post-Civil War Texas to buyers and cash in Kansas—to the success and toil of modern ranchers such as baseball star Nolan Ryan, the beef industry has survived as one of the few constants in the American culinary landscape.

The hard work of cattle ranchers has paved the way for those of us who still enjoy an excellent steak, a glass of "big" red wine, and the kind of luxury and comfort you can find at The Grill, located adjacent to the Fairmont Scottsdale Princess.

Looking over the tranquil, sun-soaked-electric-green fairways of TPC Scottsdale, The Grill serves what can only be called "The Old School" style of meat and potatoes. Its menu reflects the sentiment that golfers—the mainstay of this Phoenix landmark—demand large portions of quality food with minimal pretense.

BIGGER IS MUCH BETTER – Size matters in the meat department, and the chefs at The Grill are not inclined to mess around with "Petite" Filet Mignon or watercress salads. In keeping with the Chicago Chop House (see the archive of this column for a complete review) or Peter Luger Steakhouse in Brooklyn, the steaks are huge and the salads are potent warm-up items for the main event.

Try the Vine Ripe Tomatoes & Sweet Onion Salad drizzled in Garlic Oil ($8.25) or the Caesar Salad with Sweet Yellow Sun Dried Tomatoes and Toasted Croutons ($8.25)—both boast fresh-off-the-vine produce and dressings both light and complex in flavor.

The best appetizers include a Roasted Lobster Bisque, infused with vanilla and topped with a dollop of Marshmallow Brulee ($9.25)—it juggles the subtle flavor of Maine lobster and the sweetness of the vanilla-marshmallow combo; a brilliant Turtle Soup with a touch of Amontillado Sherry ($8.50) that rivals the classic turtle soup you find at Brennan's in the French Quarter of New Orleans; Pan Flashed Frog Legs in a Chardonnay Reduction ($11.25), a rare case of being able to order frog legs that are not bathed in a heavy cream-based sauce in a French restaurant; and a rich and intense Carmelized Seven Onion Soup with Gruyere Crouton ($7.50).

Prime Time – As to the main courses, the U.S.D.A. Certified Prime Beef must be ordered in the "Dry-Aged," manner—the aging process evokes a "nutty" quality, sure, but the real bonus is that a dry-aged cut tastes better and packs enough flavor to impress the likes of John Wayne.

Dry-aged options features Porterhouse ($47), which includes both sirloin and filet sides of the cut; New York Strip ($46); Rib Eye ($42) and Filet Mignon ($44). All of the steaks are lean and prepared perfectly to order.

If you can't handle an entire steak, consider the Chateaubriand of Cod Loin with roasted corn and Polenta Flan ($33) in a Chanterelle Sauce (Amazing!) or "The Grill" Surf and Turf with a fresh 10 oz. Lobster Tail and small Filet served with Stuffed Yukon Gold Potatoes, Haricot Vert (French green beans) and Lemon Butter (Market Price).

An excellent wine list (including a Duckhorn Merlot) and pipe and cigar bar add more grist to the mill for what can only be called one of the best steak restaurants West of the Pecos—John Wayne would have been proud.

The Grill. Operated by the Fairmont Scottsdale Princess. Open seven days per week for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Call 480-585-4848 for reservations.

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