’Twas on the Isle of Capri that I found her,
Beneath the shade of an old walnut tree,
Oh, I can still see the flowers blooming ’round her,
Where we met on the Isle of Capri!

Just can't get this old Ray Noble ditty out of my head as our jet ferry docks at Marina Grande on the fabled Isle of Capri, playground of the rich and famous! Picturesque wooden skiffs line the beachfront with its cafés and souvenir shops, while tiny white houses perch precariously high above on the rocky cliffs.  It’s early morning so there’s just a short line up for tickets to the spectacular funicular ride up to Piazza Umberto 1, high above on rocky cliffs. Open-back taxis with awnings pass by, large scooters haul produce, and tourists are everywhere. 

I follow Via Madre Serafina, a narrow pathway high above the main square, to Via Castello leading me to Belvedere Cannone, a high plateau where the French placed a cannon in 1808 to defend the island's southern sector. I can't resist peering into exquisite private gardens with their ever-present lemon trees, or gazing down at the ant-like visitors to the Augustus Gardens and Carthusian Monastery far below.  Reaching the Belvedere, I'm joined by a few hearty hikers and one curious seagull. We all gaze in awe at the breathtaking panorama of the Faraglioni Rocks, the Mermaids' Rock, a tiny village and cerulean waters far below.

Belvedere Cannone overlooking the Faraglioni Rocks on Capri

Back among the crowds I buy some hand-painted tiles and admire a set of chili-pepper-adorned dishes. Unfortunately the seas are too rough to visit the famous Grotta Azzurra or Blue Grotto, a 650-foot-long, 278-foot-wide cavity entered by lying on the bottom of a small rowboat.

But I’m getting ahead of myself here. Lucca, Sorrento and Capri in Italy, Menorca and Mallorca in Spain’s Balearic Islands, we’ll visit them all onboard Silverseas luxurious ship, Silver Whisper, on its 10th Anniversary "Mediterranean Tapestry" cruise. This trip will truly weave a vibrant, multifaceted tapestry. Its colors . . . the red-frocked cardinals of Rome; rich, burnt sienna hues of the Tuscan countryside; orange and lemon trees of Sorrento; Blue Grotto of Capri; Moorish whitewashed buildings on Spain’s Menorca; a single red rose placed daily on Chopin’s piano in Valldemosa, Mallorca.

The creation of this international tapestry lies in the capable hands of Captain Ignazio Tatulli, Master of the Silver Whisper, as he sails from the port of Civitecchia north to Livorno on the Sigurian Sea, then south on the Tyrrhenian Sea, around the island of Sardinia, on to the Mediterranean and Balearic Islands.

It is no surprise to any passengers that for the sixth time Silversea cruises has been named the winner of Travel & Leisure magazine’s "World’s Best" award for 2004.  In May 2003, the Whisper was docked on the Neva River at St. Petersburg when Russian President Vladmir Putin chartered it to host world leaders from the G8 countries. Onboard photos of his guests include: Tony Blair, George W. Bush, Jacques Chirac, Gerhard Schroder and Jean Chretien.

An overnight in Rome’s venerable Hotel Bernini Bristol sets the stage. The stately hotel with its Murano glass chandeliers and priceless 18th century tapestries has been welcoming visitors since 1870. Only here overnight; I choose to visit the Trevi Fountain and Spanish Steps.  I’m overwhelmed by the magnificent sculptures all around me, especially Baroque era sculptor Gianlorenzo Bernini’s famous Tritone Fountain, featured in Dan Brown’s novel, Angels and Demons. Here, the annoying buzz of Vespa scooters, there, the typical tourist, guidebook in one hand, gelato cone in the other. And everywhere, souvenir shops selling Italian soccer shirts!

Shops in Via San Cesareo, Sorrento

With my money tucked safely under my shirt, I stray into little side streets with their cafes and leather shops on my way to the Trevi Fountain. Despite watching the movies, "Three Coins in a Fountain" and Fellini’s "La Dolce Vita," I am completely unprepared for this overpowering sight. Neptune, the sea god, rides a winged chariot driven by sea horses through the gushing waters. Corinthian columns form a triumphant arch with a large niche representing his palace. In 1892 an English tourist wrote in his journal "If you wish to return to Rome, come here the last day of your visit, take a drink out of the rim of the fountain with your left hand, then turn and throw into the water, over your left shoulder, a halfpenny."  Today, the fountain is filled with thousands of coins and I add mine to them, but tempting as it is, refrain from plunging in, a la actress Anita Ekburg.

Brilliant red roses in terra cotta pots line the formidable Spanish Steps, where lovers relax and children play. Built with a legacy from the French in 1725, but named after the Spanish Embassy to the Holy See, the steps lead up to the Trinita dei Monti, founded by the French in 1495. Below in the Piazza Spagna, is la Barcaccia, a boat-shaped fountain. Nearby, not moving a muscle, a man with chalk white face poses as a marble statue, startling passersby. I take a photo of an authentic sculpture in a narrow alleyway.  When I develop the photo, I notice his money tin set out for donations! Sure fooled me.  

Pizza Marinara on Capri

Along Via Condotti’s pedestrian street, fashion gurus, Bulgari, Gucci, Prada and Ferragamo present exquisite window displays. It’s apparently not unusual to come across famous people here followed by a scorta (bodyguard) or the paparazzi.  My souvenir of Rome?  My very own Italian boot! A lime-green, black-and-white, stiletto-heeled boot with a handle . . . a combination purse and weapon.

The luxurious Silver Whisper awaits at the port of Civetecchia for an overnight cruise north to Livorno.  Revisiting a Silverseas ship is like coming home. I’m made to feel so welcome and although I’m sailing solo this time, I know I won’t be lonely.  Next day it’s my first visit to Tuscany’s Lucca, one of the most handsome Romanesque cities in Europe, with its unique four walls still standing, red-tiled roofs, myriad alleyways, cathedrals and great paintings. Lime, chestnut and sycamore trees were planted on the walls in 1804 when Napoleon’s sister lived here. The magnificent Cathedral San Michelle a Foro and the impressive Palazzo Pretorio tower over the Piazza San Michele. In a tiny shop here, I spot a lime green blouse. I’m certainly no Lollabrigida but do find in Italy that size large is a little snug, so I ask the proprietor for "molto grande." "Ah signora, molto, molto, molto grande!" he cries, holding up the blouse with a tag marked XXXL! (Seems it’s a really stretchy fabric.)

"Come Back to Sorrento," Frankie crooned in the ‘40s.  Perched high atop cliffs overlooking the Bay of Naples, Sorrento was a major stop on the "Grand Tour" that every noble European son of the time had to make in the 1880s. Thus Byron, Keats, Scott, Dickens, Goethe, Wagner, Ibsen and Nitzsche, to mention a few of the most famous, came to stay in Sorrento in search of sun and inspiration. The city is spread out on terraces rising to 650 feet above the sea on the coast road between Naples and Amalfi.  In the narrow street Via S. Cesareo, shops and wares follow one another along an ancient Greek-Roman route, where it is possible to buy artistic ceramics and linens, crocheted lace, coral jewelry and cameos.  But by far the most coveted items are inlaid furniture and boxes. I’m intrigued by the abundance of lemons everywhere, decorating signs, silk scarves, aprons, pottery, tiles and liqueur glasses.  Limoncello, made from the oval lemons grown in Sorrento, is Italy’s favorite drink after Campari.  At her little stand near the bus shuttle, Theresita introduces me to her grandmother’s recipe for Crema di Limona.

That evening we do "come back to Sorrento" by ship’s tender to the Teatro Tasso, for a special Silverseas Experience . . . an evening of dance and music by local entertainers, then back to the Silver Whisper for the official 10th birthday party celebration under the stars . . . a sumptuous buffet, music, dancing, giant birthday cake in the shape of the Silver Whisper, and to top it all off, a full moon over Sorrento!

It’s a relaxing day onboard the Silver Whisper as we sail past Sardinia. Time to appreciate the conviviality and casual elegance of this small 388 passenger ship. With a crew of 295 we are well cared for.  If I were a golfer, I could take advantage of the Silver Links 365 golf program with professional instruction from a PGA-classed pro in 73 x 33 foot full-motion golf cages and enjoy complimentary clinics and demos. But the pool looks inviting. I don’t want to miss the jewelry fashion show featuring Daniela D. Cesaroni’s fabulous DiDi Roma collection of "Venetian Pearls."  These exquisite necklaces of Venetian glass and 24 carat gold leaf are produced by techniques passed down through the centuries from generation to generation.

Red Carpet Galley Lunch onboard The Silver Whisper

The red carpet is laid out for a Galley Lunch in the restaurant, featuring an abundance of international delights. A workout in the gym or siesta is in order to prepare for the evening dinner of lobster, snails, roast breast of Guinea fowl with sweet casserole of onions, almonds and pear! Nothing boring about a day at sea on Silverseas!

What a delightful surprise to discover Spain’s Balearic island of Menorca! Long a favorite of Europeans, it is one of the most beautiful islands in the Mediterranean, with hidden coves and miles of beaches.  Barely five miles wide and less than 21 miles long, it is one of the quieter islands and has escaped most of the side-effects of package holidays on Mallorca and the notorious nightlife on Ibiza, where some clubs don’t open until four o’clock in the morning.  Proclaimed a biosphere reserve by UNESCO, Menorca is a favorite with nature lovers. It’s an archaeological wonder, boasting an impressive prehistoric collection of megalithic monuments. We anchor in the port of Mahon, one of Europe’s finest natural harbors with its array of buildings built on the site of an old castle high on a cliff.

Mahon has allegedly lent its name to one of the world’s most popular sauces, mayonnaise.  Following his victory over the British, Louis-Francois-Armand du de Vignerot du Plessis, a cousin of Cardinal Richelieu, stopped at a local inn where he was served a tasty sauce. On his return to Paris, he introduced the sauce to the royal court, where the new garnish was an instant hit. Already known on the islands as "salsa mahonesa." it became known in France as "mayonnaise."

During a four-hour tour of the island, we follow a steep and twisting pathway to the summit of Monte Toro to visit the convent of Santuarii de Toro built in 1670 at the summit, almost 500 feet above the 14th century town of Es Mercadal.  Occupied by the nuns of a Franciscan order, it is regarded as the spiritual center of Menorca and an ancient center of pilgrimage. These days, pilgrims visit Monte Toro, particularly on the first Sunday in May, to participate in the Festa de la verge di Toro and following the mass, descend the stairs leading to Es Mercadal on their knees.  Inside, is the statue of the Black Madonna -Verge dei Toro- set within the main altarpiece, depicting the Virgin Mary in a gold crown, holding the infant Jesus in her arms. What appear to be ancient tapestries are actually circa 1920’s paintings on the walls.

Megalithic taula at Torralba d'en Salord, Menorca

Menorca has an estimated 1,600 megalithic sites. Traveling further into the island’s interior, past fields of poppies and periwinkles, we arrive at Torralba d’en Salord, one of the biggest Talayotic settlements on the island. The local taula, a table-like structure, with a large stone slab resting on a monolith, dates back to the Talayot era, a megalithic civilization that flourished in the Mediterranean between 1500 B.C. and the Roman conquest, and is one of the best-preserved and the tallest on the island.  An upper horizontal stone rests so well balanced on top the monolith that even frequent earthquakes over the past 3,000 years have not been able to budge it.

Cala En Porter is a picture-book cove, with its beach well protected by the towering cliffs.  From May to October it’s a popular destination for British seniors.  In the island village of Mijon, the oldest man in the world died at age 114 in December, 2003, survived by his younger brothers, ages 103 and 98. He never left the village where he was born.

We enter Cova d’en Xoroi, which overhangs the sea, and carefully walk down the many steps leading through tunnels and past several large chambers, first to a café perched out on the cliff side and further down to a prehistoric dwelling and the home of a mythical pirate . . . now a discotheque and vantage point with a most spectacular view.  

Visiting the town of Binibeca is like stepping onto the set of Casablanca. Built in 1972 to resemble a traditional Menorcan coastal fishing village, it has whitewashed, two-story houses, wooden balconies and a maze of streets so narrow you can touch buildings on both sides with outstretched arms.

Back in Mahon, portside vendors sell the friar-like sandals of leather with tire tread soles and leather purses all native to Menorca.

Valldemosa is a jewel on the island of Mallorca, the largest of Spain’s Balearic archipelago. They say you can never go back, but here I am, just as entranced 25 years later, with this island’s rugged scenery, profusion of flowers, wild pepper, fig and almond trees, lemon and orange groves and the enchanting village of Valldemosa. Exploring its winding little alleys, I photograph exquisite tile signs and nameplates and recall the grand amour of composer Frederic Chopin and French novelist, Aurora Dupin, (better known as George Sand). During a brief piano recital in the Charterhouse, the first chords of a Chopin prelude reverberate throughout the tiny theater and again my thoughts return to that winter of 1839 that the composer spent here in cells number two and four of this 14th century Royal Carthusian monastery. Apparently, in spite of the musician’s battle with tuberculosis, he and Sand worked intensely.  She wrote "Spiridion" and made notes for "A Winter in Mallorca," while Chopin finished his Preludes and worked on his second ballad, a scherzo , two polonaises and the second of the mazurkas. A highly unconventional figure for her time, George Sand wore trousers, smoked cigars and "lived in sin."  I always picture her as exotic actress Merle Oberon, Chopin as the dashing Cornel Wilde, in the 1945 movie: A Song to Remember. The only belongings left are a small portrait of George Sand and a French piano. The peasants burned most, after the couple left for the mainland, fearing they would catch the composer’s tuberculosis. A fresh red rose is always placed on the composer’s favorite Pleyel piano in cell number two which holds Chopin’s scores and Sand’s manuscripts.

In 1997, a modern tale of doomed lovers played out here when Princess Diana and Dodi Fayed stayed in the hip, elegant La Residencia in nearby Deia just two days before her tragic death in Paris. Perhaps she dined in El Olivo, which lies within and around an antique olive press or swam in the elliptical 330-foot swimming pool lined with subtropical plants and bougainvillea, as has everyone from Spain’s Queen Sofia to the Emperor of Japan, as well as America’s rock and roll elite.

As all too soon as we reach port in Barcelona, I know my Mediterranean tapestry is complete, its threads wind through my memory and it will forever hang in my heart.