Martin Brodeur is without a doubt the most versatile and unique sports star in the world. Brodeur, the starting goalie for the New Jersey Devils–yes, hockey will return in 2005 − boasts an impressive on-the-ice dossier that includes leading Canada to a gold medal in the 2002 Winter Olympics, standing on his head to guide the New Jersey Devils to the Stanley Cup; winning the Vezina Trophy as the National Hockey League’s top goalie, and proving once and for all that elite French Canadian goaltenders (re: Patrick Roy) are superior to all the other crazies who face pucks aimed at their face at 100 mph.
Now that we’ve established his air-tight hockey credentials, it is safe to reveal that Brodeur is leading a double-life–he is not only a great goalie and a Canadian national hero, but the brilliant chef de cuisine (if only for a night) at Nuances Restaurant at the Casino de Montreal. (See naturaltraveler.com archives for last month’s review of this outstanding restaurant.)
How does a hockey player get to cook dinner at one of the top five French restaurants in Canada? Why would he even want to try to do something so crazy?
"I have always enjoyed a challenge and nothing gives me more pleasure than cooking gourmet food," said Brodeur, who is a regular customer at Nuances and a native son of the fair city of Montreal. "I wanted to do all the things a chef would do in the kitchen, not just sit back and take credit for the hard work and artistry of another chef. My goal was to be part of the culinary team of Jean-Pierre Curtat (executive chef) and Olivier Rault (chef), and to complement the brilliance of their cooking style and technique."
And so Brodeur met with Curtat and Marc Labrie, the restaurant services director at Nuances, to ask for the opportunity to prove that he could prepare a gourmet meal–not for friends and family, mind you, but for 72 patrons of the gold standard of French cooking.
"He arrived at 2 p.m. on June 29 and went to work immediately on all aspects of preparing a five-course meal," said Curtat, who is one of the most respected French chefs in North America. "He made sauces; he designed the plates; he basically did everything an executive sous chef would do from the moment he arrived until the time the first course was served."
And Brodeur, the polished professional, was able to prepare the meal and graciously cruise around the dining room while his "guests" enjoyed a meal that was absolute genius.
Warm-Ups: "Tour De Chapeau" De Crevettes, Trio de Coulis Estivaux
"Hat trick" of shrimp and summer coulis trio: Three delicate shrimp served with three sauces served in tall tumblers. My favorite was an orange bell pepper sauce that was the perfect color-flavor match for the shrimp.
Wine pairing: Menetou-Salon, Morogues, Henry Pelle, Valle de la Loire, 2002
First Period: Petoncle Marine Au Citron, en Crème D’Asperge Rafraichie
Lemon-marinated scallop with chilled asparagus cream: One of the best chilled summer soups I have ever tried, with a grilled scallop (moist and tender in its lemon bath) set in the center of a bowl of fresh green-asparagus bisque.
Second Period: Ballotine de Pinotade aux Champignons Sauvages et Ses Petits Farcis, Jus de Roti
Guinea fowl ballotine with wild mushrooms and stuffed patty fan squash with roast jus: A very light course with a beautiful wild mushroom sauce encircling the savory, peppery guinea fowl.
Wine pairing: Mas Elena, Pares Balta, Penedes, Espagne, 2000
Third Period: Carre D’Agneau Roti, Risotto Frit a la Tomate Confite, Quelques Legumes du Moment et Tempura D’herbes de Notre Jardin
Roasted rack of lamb, fried risotto with tomato confit, seasonal vegetables and herb tempura from Nuances garden: Brodeur was especially involved with cooking the lamb rack; a goalie–not to mention a chef de cuisine–knows when the game is on the line and this lamb dish was both simple and cooked to medium-pink perfection.
Wine pairing: Cistus, Grande Reserva, Douro, Portugal 2000
Overtime: Le "30" Patissier Aux Framboises et Marscapone
A perfect chocolate-covered hockey puck, filled with raspberry marscapone cream and adorned with Martin Brodeur’s number "30" on top. OK, it’s a bit of fun to create a chocolate dessert that looks like a hockey puck and tastes like a birthday cake prepared for a 16-year-old girl. I loved it!
Wine pairing: Rivesaltes Ambre, Domaine de Rancy, 4 ans d’age
